What it is
The On-matsuri is the festival of Wakamiya Shrine, part of Kasuga Taisha in Nara. It was first held in 1136 to pray for an end to famine and disease, and it has been held every year since, according to the shrine.
At midnight on December 17, the kami is carried from its shrine to a temporary shrine in Nara Park in complete darkness, surrounded by priests holding torches and incense. During the day, a long costumed procession walks through Nara, and from afternoon into the night, rare court dances and early forms of theater are performed for the kami on a simple lawn stage.
The festival at a glance
| Date | What happens |
|---|---|
| Dec 17, midnight | Sengyo no Gi: The kami is moved to the temporary shrine in darkness, with incense and chanting |
| Dec 17, midday | Owatari procession: About 1,000 people in costumes from the Heian to Edo periods walk through Nara |
| Dec 17, afternoon to night | Performances: Kagura, court dances and early theater are performed at the temporary shrine |
| Dec 15–18 | Rites: Preparatory and closing rituals over four days |
Which day should you go?
Dec 17
Watch the midday procession, then the performances at the temporary shrine into the evening.
What to look for
Darkness
During the midnight transfer, lights and photography are forbidden. Only torches and incense guide the kami.
Ancient performing arts
Dances and music that disappeared elsewhere survive here, performed on a lawn stage.
The procession
Riders, dancers and costumed figures from many centuries walk through the city.
Getting there & where to stay
| From | How | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Kyoto | Kintetsu Limited Express from Kyoto to Kintetsu-Nara | about 35 min |
| Osaka | Kintetsu Nara Line from Osaka-Namba to Kintetsu-Nara | about 40 min |
On the day. The temporary shrine is in Nara Park, about 20 minutes on foot from Kintetsu-Nara Station. The deity is carried there at midnight on December 17.
Crowds. The midnight procession is held in darkness. No lights or flash are allowed.
Where to stay
Nara
Stay near Kintetsu-Nara Station to see the midnight procession and walk back.
Kyoto or Osaka
Fine for the daytime parade on December 17, but the last trains leave before the midnight rite ends.
When to book. December is quiet in Nara. Booking 1 month ahead is usually enough.
Times are typical fastest routes. Check current timetables before you travel.
Practical tips
- Cold. December nights in Nara are cold. Dress warmly for the outdoor performances.
- Etiquette. Follow the shrine's rules strictly during the midnight rite: no lights, no flash, no talking.
Glossary
Kagura神楽
Sacred music and dance performed for the kami. Many forms retell myths, above all the story of Amaterasu and the rock cave.
Otabisho御旅所
The kami's temporary lodging during a festival, often in the busiest part of town.
Matsuri祭り
A Japanese festival, usually held for the kami of a local shrine. The word comes from the idea of serving and entertaining the gods.
References
- Kasuga Taisha, official website: On-matsuri.
- Nara City Tourism Association: Kasuga Wakamiya On-matsuri.
Last checked 2026-10-12.