What December is like
December is cold and mostly dry in Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka, with clear blue skies and early sunsets. The north and the Japan Sea side get snow. Pack a warm coat, gloves and good shoes: many December festivals happen outdoors at night, and some last until the small hours.
Towns light up with winter illuminations, and from about December 28 many offices, museums and some restaurants close for the New Year holidays. Trains and planes are very full around December 29–30 and January 2–4.
Highlights
- Chichibu Night Festival, Saitama. On December 3, huge lantern-lit floats are hauled up a steep slope while winter fireworks burst overhead. One of Japan’s three great float festivals, and only 80 minutes from Tokyo.
- Kasuga Wakamiya On-matsuri, Nara. The deity is carried through Nara Park at midnight in total darkness, followed the next day by a grand parade in historic costume.
- Hagoita-ichi, Tokyo. In the last weeks of the year, the grounds of Sensō-ji fill with stalls selling decorated battledores, a lucky New Year gift.
Tips for December
- Dress for standing still in the cold: night festivals involve a lot of waiting. Our winter festivals guide covers the season.
- Book trains early if you travel between December 28 and January 4.
- End the year with New Year’s Eve at a temple, then read our guide to hatsumōde, the first shrine visit of the year.
